Part 1: Days 1-5 of the Camino de Santiago

 Day 1 of the Camino de Santiago 

34km

Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port and Roncessvales

About to start the Camino! At St-Jean-Pied-de-Port 

I woke up at 5am in St Jean-Pied-de-Port and got ready. I went to have breakfast at the hostel at 6:30. I started walking at 6:50 with a French guy named Eric from the Island of Reunion. It was dark, so Eric had his headlight on until 8am. We were walking together for several hours. It was a lot of walking upwards, so we used the walking sticks. I had just bought some a few days ago in Bordeaux. We enjoyed the lovely views at the top of the mountain.

At some point, I changed from pants into shorts, because it got hot. I had my passport with me in my pocket, which was not a good idea. At the Roland Fountain, I realized that I lost my towel. It was a special kind of towel which dries fast. It had been in one of the side pockets, and it had probably fallen out when I took out a bottle of water. But it was not a big deal. I could buy another one. A minute later, I realized that I had lost my passport!! It was not in my pocket!! I knew it fell out, but just to make sure, I emptied my bag and checked in there. I had been trying to keep my stuff clean, but af this point, I just took everything out on the grass. The passport wasn't there. I felt very stupid. It was only the first day, and I had lost the one thing that one cannot lose! The thing is that the shorts I got were new, and the pockets had zippers. I had never used these shorts before. When the zippers are down, something can easily fall out. 

One guy who passed by said that I should go back and find it!! After climbing upwards for so long, I didn't want to go back down and then up again. I must have lost it 30-60 minutes ago. Some other people gathered to help. One person said that we should continue to Roncesvalles, our destination, and someone will pick it up. She said I can also advise the police in Roncesvalles and in St Jean-Pied-de-Port. The passport must be somewhere in between these two locations! I thought that in the worst case, I will have to go to a big city and apply at a consulate or something. But I also needed the passport for every single hostel. 

We walked a little slower, and were asking the people passing by if they saw a blue passport. The fifth person we asked had it! He asked for my name to be sure, and then gave it to me. It was only twenty minutes between the time I realized I lost it and when I got it back. Tje giy who found ot was named Ian from Taiwan. I was very happy that he found it, so I thanked him and took a photo with him. I was enlivened and had lots of energy. I was very happy to know that I didn't have to walk back down and then up again. I made sure that I always closed ny shorts' pockets after that.

He found my passport!

I have heard people say that "the Camino provides," and I experienced the first miracle on the first day!

I took some time alone to chant my rounds (Hare Krishna rosary prayers).  Then I got to Roncesvalles at 2:30. There was a big fort turned into a hostel. It was operated by people from the Netherlands.

Hostel in Roncesvalles 

 I went to a restaurant and ordered fries. I devoured them. Then I  showered and then did laundry by hand. There was a centrifugal dryer to help dey the clothes. During that, I met a fellow named Kane from London. We had an amazing conversation about Krishna consciousness. I hoped to see him again, but since I am walking more than the others every day, I will not see most people I will meet. I will go to Pamplona the following day. I ran into a group of Amsricans that i met on the way to Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port (Eddie, Ellie, and Derrick). I also met their friend Kayla, who will do the Camino by bike. At 6pm, I went to mass. But it was in Spanish, so I left. I had dinner at 7pm at the Casa Sabina. I had dinner with Julia from Italy and two Irish men. They had a vegetarian option for me. It was fun! They drank wine. I got a ticket for breakfast. There was nowhere to est. It's the smallest settlement I've ever seen. There's one fort, three restaurants, and two churches. That's it! Mainly, this place exists for pilgrims. 

First dinner on the Camino

I spoke to some Italians outside the restaurant. Then I went to bed. But I couldn't go to sleep, because there was too much adrenaline in my system! 

Day 2 - Pamplona

45km

I felt like I barely slept. I was in between the waking and sleeping state all night. I looked at the time at 11:30, 12:30, 1:30. However, I was not tired. I took some toilet paper to dry my body after taking a shower (I had lost my towel the day before). I put it on the ledge, but it was slanted, so the toilet paper fell, along with my shirt, on the wet floor! But it was ok. I would dry off. There's no real need for a towel when showering. I had breakfast with Claribel from the states and Amna from Brazil. I said that coffee will actually make them have less energy, but Anna wad Brazilian and she loved her coffee. I was actually the last one to leave the hostel! 

Throughout the day, I met some people, like Claudia, who is Italian. I spoke with her for a bit and learnt some Itapian, and then saw Eddie, Derrick, and Ellie. Then I passed by Claribel and Anna. I also saw Benoit from Montreal. I passed all of the people I met from the hostel and got to Zubiri at 12:50. It was too early to check ih. I asked the hostel there if I can book a spot in Pamplona. She said they don't accept reservations, but that I will find a spot because we are in the off season. I hope she's right. I walked on the highway to get to Pamplona faster. The Camino is more beautiful because it's usually in mature, and without cars. But it has a lot of ups and downs. I didn't stop at all. I just had some bread and cake which I took from the restaurant in the morning, and some granola bars, which I brought with me from Montréal. I wanted to arrive in Pamplona at 5pm. I realized that I had left late, at 8:10am. If I want to do 40km, I need to leave at 6 or 7 and then get breakfast on the way.

I listened to several episodes of Wisdom of the Sages (a yoga podcast) while walking on the highway. It was flat, so it was easier. I wanted to take a break. It turned out that because the Spanish people take a siesta, the supermarket was closed and so were some restaurants. I will encounter this challenge every day, because there's no avoiding the siesta. Spanish life is siesta and fiesta.

At some point, I felt like I was going to faint. So, I approached a house and asked for water. They were very nice. They invited me to come in, and even to stay over. They offered fried shrimp and beer, but I respectfully refused. I did take some fried peppers, which were freshly pcked from their garden. Mainly, I just filled my two water bottles and left. But it was a pleasant encounter. 

I arrived into the city around 5 and then walked through it to the hostel. I saw a few things, but the main thing to see was the cathedral. As soon as I arrived, I checked in and then lay down on my bed. I was shaking and shivering for 40 minutes!! And my teeth were chattering. I have never experienced this before. Somehow, I convinced myself to take a shower, which helped a lot! It femeoved 70% of the pain. I was told that some people will make dinner for everyone at 8pm, and that I can join for 5 Euros. I asked if it was vegetarian, and they said yes, it will be. I said I will join. 

The cathedral in Pamplona 

I went to get a lower bed, because I was given an upper bed and it was too difficult to go up after having walker for 9.5 hours! The receptionist obliged. Then, I met Tom from Sydney and we talked about Hare Krishna and Christianity. We went to the cathedral together, and then to a shop where I bought a towel, and he bought posters. We went back to the hostel for dinner. Before starting, someone brought a drum and asked us to sing the mantra "Om Tare Tu Tare" with her. It was pleasant. Then, someone read out loud the "Pilgrim's Prayer." We were about 25 people in the kitchen. We had a delicious salad and then pasta made by Italians! It was good, although there was no vegetables in the pasta. 

Enjoying pasta made by Italians!

Of course, some people came to know that I had done 45km. They were saying I was crazy, but I felt great! I felt like a champion.Ii even felt my thinking was clearwe. I did two steps in one day. However, I admit that I should have taken breaks. It was too stressful to walk the whole way without stopping, and unnecessary. 

I met two guys from Marseille who started in Arles. There are several starting points in France, including Arles, Le Puy, and Paris. We talked about Marseille, since I lived there in 2010, and about Québec. They said that their friends walked ahead as they took some rest days. So they mentioned three names, and said that if I see those people, I should let them know that I know Noé and Octave.

I walked around to do my daily audio journaling and there were so many people out in bars and restaurants. It was hard to find a quiet spot.

I walked 9.5 hours today, half an hour more than I should have because I didn't follow Google Maps. I hope I will sleep well tonight. Still, I would say that Day 1 was harder because of going up and down the hill. But in Day 2, I didn't snack and I didn't rest, and that was the mistake. I would have to rest at least once in between if I'm walking for 8 or 9 hours. 

Day 3 - Estella

49km

I slept very well. I got ready and left at 7:25am. I walked through the streets of Pamplona. There was so much garbage in the streets. A lot of broken bottles of beer, and other stuff. I stopped somewhere to have breakfast. I ordered a vegetable sandwich, but I noticed that there's tuna and egg in it! Apparently, tuna is a vegetable in Spain. So I asked the waitress if they can make me one without tuna and eggs. 

I didn't know how to get to the Camino, so I walked on the road. I followed Google Maps. Suddenly, it became a highway with a speed limit of 120! I walked for a bit before I was stopped by the police! They asked for my passport. I pretended that I don't speak any Spanish. One of them turned out to be French, so I spoke with her. We were in the car for a few minutes. I thought they were giving me a fine, but it was actually because they had stopped some guy in a car, and that was how they ended up seeing me. So the fine was for him. They gave me back my passport and then dropped me off on the Camino. They were very nice. The lady said that this happens often with pilgrims, especially cyclists. They gave me a stamp and a bracelet. So I gave them one of my CDs as a token of appreciation. I was happy I wasn't fined.

I was back on the Camino, which means lots of ups and downs. The benefit of the highway is that it's flat. But then there's the loud sound of cars and pollution. It's also very dangerous, which is what the police said. 

I chanted my rounds and then listened to my upcoming album and gave some comments. Then, I met Elana and Victor, siblings from the Canary Islands. I recognized them as my bunk bed neighbours from last night. We walked together for a while, and I learnt some Spanish words from them. I learnt the word "vale" which means ok. It is pronounced "ba-leh." We walked to Puente La Reina. We asked a couple where we could eat lunch, and they showed us a place. It turned out that that place wouldn't start making food for another 20 minutes, so I said goodbye and went somewhere else. I had a vegetable sandwich, fries, and a chocolatine (in Spain, they call it a Napolitana). 

I started walking again at 1:30pm. I'm happy that I sat and had lunch. I plan to arrive at Estella at 5:30. I wanted to wake up at 4am eventually. That was the goal, so that I can't start and arrived earlier. But there are usually people still up at 9pm and even 10pm, although that is the quiet hours time.

I listened to Wisdom of the Sages. I had an amazing day. I lost two parts of one of the walking sticks. They just fell out! Probably because I was running down the hill yesterday. I listened to my album again and gave more comments.

I got to Estella at 7:30pm! So I was away for 12 hours, since I left Pamplona at 7:30am. 11 hours of walking and one hour total of rest. I arrived and showered right away. No shaking or shivering this time. I think my system is getting used to walking a lot. I also found that I could do laundry in a propr washing machine and dryer. I thought that I would be washing my clothes by hand on this trip. I did do that at Roncesvalles, but now that I found a washer and dryer, I decided to always use them. The clothes will be cleaner, and there will be no need for me to hang my clothes and wait for them all night to dry. It only cost 8 Euros to stay, and then 5 to wash and dry my clothes. It was very reasonable. I'm very happy with that. 

Estella

I spoke to some French people at the hostel. They told me about some free things in the fridge. I had bread and cheese. Then I cooked some potatoes, peas, and carrots with olive oil and spices. It was a very nice meal. I saved time by not having to go to the supermarket. 

I spoke to Yves from France, who has been to Lebanon. We had a pleasant conversation about that. Then he inevitably asked how much I walked, and I answered. He was upset, and said that I shouldn't walk too much. I said that I have several reasons: I'm doing four detours, I'm going to visit Portugal after, I wish to lose weight, and I want the pilgrim experience, not the first world tourist experience. I will not let what people say bother me. Yves said that there are no rules, and that one can take the bus sometimes or send their luggage to the next town. There is no judgment. So, in the same vain, I asked him not to judge me for walking a lot. 

There was a guitar at the hostel! So I played some songs and shared kirtan. It was fun! I wanted to sleep earlier, but it was not possible to do everything by 9pm since I arrived at 7:30. Tomorrow, I will try to wake up at 4am.

By the way, it has been so useful to know French! And to know a bit of Spanish and Italian. I am happy to be able to connect with more people because of knowing these languages. I have been voice Journaling to save time, and also no need to carry a notebook with me. Not to mention, it will be easier to transcribe them after. Of course, I am now writing this first part of the blog on my phone! But it took so long, so I will do future parte in the future, after my trip.

Day 4 - Viana

46.5km

I had excellent sleep, and I was eager to wake up at 5am. I even woke up before my alarm a few times. I got ready, had breakfast at the hostel, and then took some food with me too. I walked an hour and a half in the dark. Then the sun came and it became hot. I arrived at an oasis at 10:30am. It was a food truck in the middle of nowhere operated by some Americans. I took a break there. bought a piece of bread and added butter to it. I also ate some yogurt. I arrived to Los Arcos at 12:15 and took another break. I met Sophie from Switzerland. I stayed for 10 minutes and started walking again. I was told that we could get an Epson salt bath for the feet in Viana. It was the same company, Pilgrim's Oasis, which had a branch there. I was planning to go go Logrono, but it's very far and very hot. I lost my hat yesterday. I forgot it somewhere after taking a photo. They gave me a cap at the Oasis, but it was smelly, so I threw it away. It was a very hot day. 

A church in Los Arcos

I arrived to the hostel in Viana at 6pm. So it was almost a 12-hour day. I didn't make it to Logroño. After Los Arcos, I was feeling so tired that I lay down on a bench and I took a nap for 45 minutes. I used my bag as a pillow. So, because I took a nap, it was too late to walk to Logroño. When I got to Torres del Rio, I bought a hat. On the way to Viana, just an hour before arriving, I met Tim from Germany. We talked and helped each other get to the destination. He has been walking for 80 days! He started in Munich, and then went through the Alps, Austria, and Arles. Moreover, he is mostly staying in a tent!! His bag is 14KG! Suddenly, my journey seemed easier. We got to Viana, and Tim decided to take a hostel for the night. Sometimes, he does that to take a break, wash some clothes. Otherwise, he washes his clothes and showers in the river! 

I took a shower and then went to have dinner at a restaurant and called my parents. It was only 7 Euros to eat a vegetarian meal. Also, in Spain, there is no tax or tipping. So whatever price you see is what you pay! Everything vegetarian is cheaper. But, I have to make sure there is no eggs and onions. "No como huevos, no como cebalos" I would say. I got a little blister on the bottom of my right foot, but I don't feel it when wearing shoes and thick socks. I only feel it when walking with flip flops. It's not a big deal. I am staying with Tim only in the room. We were afraid we won't find a bed, because some other hostels were closed for the season. We ended up getting a whole room with no one else in it. I'm happy that I will get a good night's sleep. Since I didn't get to Logroño, I will also do 40km tomorrow. The hostel includes breakfast so I will leave after breakfast to Najera.

Day 5 - Najera

45km

I left at about 7:10. I had a big breakfast with everyone. I met some boys from Denmark. I walked with my rain coat for the first time. It covered most of my body and my bag. The only thing that's not covered is my shoes. But it didn't rain much. I also used the headlight for the first time. Once the rain stopped, I took off the raincoat, but I realized that it's wet, so I decided to keep it on until it dries in the sun. And that's when I ran into Javier and Oscar. "Where are you from?" I asked. "Espain," Javier said. We talked a lot and I walked with them for most of the day. I learned some Spanish words, and also that the "v" is always pronounced as a "b" in Spanish. Also, if there is a c in the middle of the word, it's pronounced "th." So, Valencia is actually pronounced "Balenthia." It was useful to know these things, in order to speak better Spanish. We stopped at Navaratte to have something to eat. I also met Mia from Taiwan. She said she is doing the Camino first, and then she will tell her children about it.

Javier and Oscar from Espain

I said goodbye to my two Spanish friends, because I was walking longer than them. I knew that that's the case, as it has been for the last four days. I meet people, and then I walk ahead of them. I listened again to my upcoming album to evaluate everything, making sure everything is OK before it goes on to the next stage of production.

I bought another walking stick yesterday, and I used it today. I still have the small blister on the bottom of my right foot, but when I wear socks and shoes, I don't feel it. I prefer not being alone, although when I'm alone I listen to "Wisdom of the Sages." But it is more motivating to talk with people. im looking forward to ending early today at 5pm. Tomorrow and the day after are two short days, before I do SEVEN big days in a row! So let's see how that goes. I hope my body is getting stronger every day.

There was a weird combination of sun and rain. I had to choose between being dry and hot or wet and cool. So I chose dry and hot. But, luckily, the rain stopped in five minutes. 

I arrived ar the hoste, a d it's great! There wre many young people and it had a lively vibr. It's a donativo, menaing that it'sby donation. I showered and then went to see a monastery: the Santa Maria de Real. It was the first time I did some tourism. The other towns didn't have much to see. I got some fries, and then I made plain rice, which is what I found at the hostel. I had no time to go shopping. I feel full, even though there were no vegetables. I did laundry. Then I met the friends of Noé and Octave from Marseille! They were surprised that I caught up with them. We took a photo together and sent it to the others. I met Carlos from Spain, and he gave me some Spanish grammar lessons. Then, I played lots of guitar. I shared kirtan and people sang! The group was about 20 people. We sat outdoors on the floor. It was a beautiful moment. Tomorrow, I'll be going off the Camino for the first time to see some monasteries in San Milan, and then to Santo Domingo de la Calzada after that. It's not a big day, but I hope to rest well tonight. Donativos have big halls with many beds, but I have good ear plugs which I bought from Amazon specifically for this trip, so I should be fine.

Monasterio Santa Maria La Real

25% of the Camino done!