Part 2: Day 6-10 of the Camino

Day 6 - San Milan and Santo Domingo de la Calzada 

32km

I heard that there might be some issues with getting a visa to Idnia. I will be going there in January. So, I spent an hour in the morning applying for it. I cropped a photo from last year's application, because I wasn't about to go to a photo studio in Spain. Due to this unforseen event, I started walking late.

I went off the Camino for my first detour to see two monasteries in San Milan. I walked for more than two hours all alone. Not a single human or car was in sight! I was starting to get worried that I might not get anything to eat. I finally arrived in a town called Badaran where I took breakfast. Of course, it was a bocaddilo de queso (cheese sandwich), because there was nothing else to eat as a vegetarian. I also got a Napolitana (the Spanish name for pain au chocolat). 

I continued to San Milan and put my thumb out to hitchhike. The second car I saw stopped! It turned out to be a Moroccan and an Algerian. We exchanged a few words in Arabic. They were happy to give me a lift, and they got me a bit closer to San Milan. I only had half an hour left of walking. I did a tour of the Yuso monastery. It was beautiful! The tour was in Spanish, so I barely understood anything. Then, I had a lovely mushroom risotto and a flan cake at a restaurant. I later took another tour. This time of the older Suso monastery. 

Yuso Monastery 

The monastic community founded by St Millán in the mid-6th century became a place of pilgrimage. A fine Romanesque church built in honour of the holy man still stands at the site of Suso. It was here that the first literature was produced in Castilian, from which one of the most widely spoken languages in the world today (Spanish) is derived. In the early 16th century, the community was housed in the fine new monastery of Yuso, below the older complex; it is still a thriving community today.

Main Altar of the Yuso Monastery 

I'm very happy to have made this detour. It was totally worth it. It was a historic, well-preserved site. And for pilgrims, there is always a discount. It was nice to do something other than walking all day. I feel rested and ready to walk to Santo Domingo de la Calzada.

First Castillan literature. The origin of Spanish language 

I hitchhiked my way back on the Camino. However, this time it took a while before someone picked me up. Although the driver was going all the way to my destination for the night, I asked him to drop me off at Cirueña, because I wanted to walk the whole Camino and not take shortcuts. It was a relaxed day. Only 32km today. I went to visit the cathedral in Santo Domingo de la Calzada, which was beautiful. It's the only cathedral in the world where they have a rooster indoors! It's related to some miracle where Santo Domingo found a rooster.

A rooster in the church!

I later saw the medieval wall, and then I had a vegan burger. I didn't like it. It tasted too much like meat! 

Day 7 - Agés

56km

This was the longest day of my whole Camino! It took me ages to get to Agés. It was also the rainiest day, and it was cold. I started walking at 6am and arrived at 7:30pm. 

I woke up at 4:30am. I put my rain coat and shoe cover on. I bought this shoe cover from Amazon. It was an excellent investment! It kept my shoes dry for the whole day. I walked for two hours with a headlight in the dark, alone, until I reached Grañon. I had a little snack, and then I met Carlos again. I also met Florion from Belgium and Hatem from Tunisia. Hatem was the first (and only) Arab I met on the trip. He lives in Switzerland. He was only wearing flip flops and socks! He said it was to prevent getting blisters. At some point, he even removed the socks. We walked through a lot of water and mud. I was prepared in three ways: a rain coat, a shoe cover, AND an umbrella! I couldn't believe he was just walking with flip flops.

We stopped at around 10:30 and I had a sandwich. We met with Martina from Italy and Sofia from England. They were all part of one big group that walked and stayed together in donativos. They would also cook and eat together. It sounded fun. 

Some interesting art I saw that day

I walked with Carlos and Sofia until Tosantos, and then I was alone again. I had 22 more km. It was only 1:30. I chanted my rounds. I was about to walk my first 50km+ day. So I had lots of time to reflect. I reflected on my journey so far and came up with 10 Life Lessons from the Camino. Some of them may be clichés or stereotypical, but please bear with me. They are the ramblings of someone who had already walked 40km in the rain. Here they are:

Life Lessons from the Camino de Santiago 

1. The Camino is just like life. Life is a journey. It's a very long journey, and it has steps. It has phases, it has ups and downs. The ups and downs should not phase us. We must be steady on our path, always focused on the goal, the destination, all the while enjoying the journey. I think it's both about the journey and the destination. Not that we forgot about the destination and just walk aimlessly. If we are going nowhere, then anywhere will take us there. 

2. Just like in life, on the CCamio, we will meet many people, and all of them will come and go. At the end of the day, it will just be you and God. Our only eternal companion. Our best friend. So, we must develop a relationship with this friend. Because every single person we meet, we will have to part ways one day. Therefore, only God is our real friend. We may feel alone sometimes, but God is always there if we try to connect.

3. Travel light. Take what you need, but not any more, and especially not any less. If you are well-equipped and well-prepared, you will do well in life. You will go far. If, however, you are missing some equipment, some tools, try to acquire them, and keep going. Do not take more, or less, than what you need. Excess baggage will weigh you down, slow you down, and make you tired. This applies to emotional, mental, corporal, and physical baggage too, meaning trauma, worries, fears, excess weight, clutter, hoarding, and the tendency to be possessive and clingy. Let life flow through you gracefully, and try to maintain your innocence and hopefulness. 

4. Remember that whoever you meet deserves a chance. Try yo get to know them. Always give love and joy to everyone you meet. Ask questions and try to understand. 

5. Be careful with your stuff, and don't trust everyone. But trust some people nonetheless. Life is not possible to be lived without trusting anyone.

6. Take as much space as you need, but also allow yourself to be in shared spaces, and have shared experiences with others. This is what allows us to connect with others deeply. Not that we have our own experience and not be able to relate to others. It's good to have some time alone, and it's also good to socialize. In a day of the Camino, I typically had both.

7. Be careful with how you spend your time, energy, money, and attention. Every moment is precious. Our energy and resources are limited. We must use them wisely.

8. Keep yourself physically, emotionally, intellectually, and spiritually engaged in a positive way. Otherwise, you may become negative, discouraged, depressed, or sad. An idle mind is the devil's workshop. As for emotions, do everything with devotion, and put your heart into it.

9. Look for the opportunities to connect with God. There are many houses of God. There are many people of God, and many opportunities to share love of God, and that too in many ways and forms. 

10. Go at your own pace. Do not compare yourself to others. Do not judge others for going too slow or too fast. They have their reasons, and you have yours. 

11. Always remember God, and never forget God. Hare Krishna 🙏 

I broke a record today. I walked 56km. It was raining most of the day, but there was a little break. I listened to lots of Wisdom of the Sages, picked some fresh wild berries, and I got to Agés at 7:30pm. I looked for the Albergue with a washer and dryer. By now, i was doing laundry every two days, because I had only brought with me 5 pairs of underwear and 2 thick winter socks. I had 3 other thinner socks, but they werentas confortable. I took a shower sitting down! Because my feet hurt. I did laundry and washed my shoe cover. It was very cold tonight. I got the news that my Indian visa was granted! 

I'm annoyed with these automatic lights in Spain. You go to the bathroom, and you're not done, and the light turns off! It doesn't give you enough time. 

I met Bente from The Netherlands  in my room, and we had a great conversation. We talked about yoga, and we could relate how it was difficult to find food we could eat, since she was mostly vegetarian and also didn't eat garlic and onions. I told her about the Bhagavad-gita, and then gave her a copy of Govinda's Grace. I put toothpaste on my feet by accident! So then I washed it off and put foot cream. I had some pain in my knee, but it's not a surprise after walking so much.

Tomorrow will be an easy day: 22km.

Day 8 - Atapuerca and Burgos 

40km

It was freezing this morning! I met Rafael from Vancouver, who was also into yoga. we walked together for about half an hour before I went on my own to get to Atapeurca. I tried to get in from several places, but it said "ZONA MILITAR. PELIGRO EXPLOSIVOS," which meant: military zone. Dangerous explosives. Since I wasn't dying to go there, I said screw this and went to the highway. As I was on the highway, I found the centre where people can take a guided tour. So I took it, and it was in Spanish. I ended up sitting down a lot, and I asked the guide for translation.

The caves of the Sierra de Atapuerca contain a rich fossil record of the earliest human beings in Europe, from nearly one million years ago and extending up to the Common Era. They represent an exceptional reserve of data, the scientific study of which provides priceless information about the appearance and the way of life of these remote human ancestors.

Atapuerca Tour

But since I'm not an archaeologis, it wasn't so interesting to me. I don't recommend it. It's not worth the detour. I realized that the explosives were used to excavate prehistoric human skeletons.  I met another pilgrim named Miklos, who also did the tour. The bus dropped me off and I walked to Burgos. It was all flat and easy, but very industrial. I chanted my rounds and listened to some Wisdom of the Sages.

I arrived to the hostel at 4:30pm, which is the earliest arrival time since Day 1. Normally, I would shower and then go out to explore. But Burgos was the exception. I just dropped off my bag and went to explore. It's incredible! I love this city.

I went to the cathedral and did a one-hour audio guided tour. It's definitely one of the most beautiful churches in the world! There are many chapels. It is a masterwork of Gothic Architecture.

Burgos Cathedral

Began in 1221 and completed in 1567, it shows the evolution of the Gothic style. Its layout is similar to that of contemporary cathedrals in the north of France. In the 15th and 16th centuries, it was home to an international workshop where Spanish builders were trained. It’s also the burial place of early members of the Spanish Royal Family and the Spanish hero El Cid.

Burgos Cathedral Entrance

Our Lady of Burgos was begun in the 13th century at the same time as the great cathedrals of the Ile-de-France and was completed in the 15th and 16th centuries. The entire history of Gothic art is summed up in its superb architecture and its unique collection of works of art, including paintings, choir stalls, reredos, tombs and stained-glass windows.

Burgod Cathedral main altarpiece

After that, I saw the Museu de Burgos. Then I saw a statue of El Cid, who is considered a hero.

Rodrigo Díaz de Vivar (c. 1043 – 10 July 1099) was a Castilian knight and ruler in medieval Spain. Fighting both with Christian and Muslim armies during his lifetime, he earned the Arabic honorific as-Sayyid ("the Lord" or "the Master"), which would evolve into El Çid, and the Spanish honorific El Campeador ("the Champion"). He was born in Vivar, a village near the city of Burgos. El Cid was a formidable military leader who won several famous battles. He was also an astute politician. His most significant accomplishment was his conquest of Muslim-ruled Valencia in spite of strong Almoravid resistance. He ruled Valencia from 1094 until his death in 1099.

El Cid. Campeador

I saw the Plaza de Liberdad and the Teatro Principal. I bought a few pastries from the Panaderias and Pastelerias. They were amazing! I passed by the hostel to get a hat and gloves so I could walk more. I met Sam from Australia. He is doing a documentary about the Camino. He asked if he can interview me, and I said yes. We will be in touch.

I went to walk up to the Castillo and saw the view. I was thinking of staying two nights here to see more of the city, but I had already seen most things, so it wasn't worth it. I had some fries with cheese and a salad at an Indian kebab place. 

I saw the Mirador (lookout point) of Burgos. It's definitely the best destination on the Camino so far. Much better than Pamplona. Santo Domingo de la Calzada was also interesting, and Najera and the monastery. But nothing compared to Burgos. I'm very happy to have seen it, and seen lots of Spanish people. So far, 90% of the towns and villages seemed abandoned! So it was nice to see Spanish people. Although I only walked 22km to get to Burgos, I walked another 18 in the city! But without the backpack, of course.

Burgos at night 

I love how they say "adios" for goodbye n Spain, which means "to God." I also like being called a "caballero." Men are called caballeros, which means a knight.

Day 9 - Castrojeriz

47km

I took breakfast and saw Bente. I met Maya from Slovenia and walked with her for about two hours. Then I stopped at a Café and saw Bente again, and two people from France. I then met Rebeka from Hungary. I spoke a bit more with Bente. Then I found out that, for the first time since day 1, someone was walking to the same destination as me! So I walked and talked with Rebeka. I didn't speak Hungarian, and she didn't speak English much, so we spoke in French. It was interesting that although neither of us spoke French as a first language, we were both able to communicate perfectly fine. It's useful to know many languages on the Camino! I learned some words in Hungarian.

I loved getting to know Rebeka and spending time with her. At some point, I let her know that I will chant my rounds. So we took a break from talking.

Rebeka from Hungary 

In Castrojeriz, we stayed in the same hostel. I had the idea to cook. i don't usually cook for myself, and this was the first time there was someone else with whom to share a meal. So we walked to the supermarket: another 3 kilometres! We made salad and pasta. Just before starting, I realized that the kitchen was for hostel use only. But we cooked anyway. We had already bought the ingredients. It's better to ask for forgiveness, and it's not a big deal. At some point, the smoke alarm went off! It took me a minute to figure out how to turn it off. We were laghing about many things, including about how we were using many things from the hostel. We just used some salt, pepper, and oil. We made salad and pasta. This was the best meal of all the trip! Ans it only cost 20 Euros for both of us, and there was so much left over that we took it in jars for the next day. Just before we finished, the guy from the hostel came and caught us! I apologized to his wife, and she siad "no passa nada" (no problem). Rebeka and I did laundry together, so it was cheaper and more eco-friendly that way. 

The first time I cooked on the trip. I plan to cook more often!

Day 10 - Villalcazar de Sirga

43km

I had breakfast at the hostel. I asked the guy from the hostel if he has take-away containers, so he gave me two jars. We managed to fit all the salad and almost all the pasta. Then i walked with Rebeka up a big hill, which was tough. We stopped at a place which was like a church. They gave bread and coffee by donation. They also had a guitar, so I played some songs and shared kirtan. 

Later, we stopped at another café. Then we arrived at Fromista. I was looking for plates to eat on. So I asked the hostel for plates and they said no, only if you're staying here. So then I went to a restaurant nearby and asked for two plates, explaining that I'm a pilgrim. She gave them to me right away! Then I went in to get forks and knives. I just helped myself. Since in Spain, they don't have any terrace service, they don't care what you do on the terrace. They don't even come out. 

We had an amazing hommade lunch. I have never done this before: eating my own food at a restaurant! Haha. Rebeka decided to stay because her foot was hurting. I wasn't going to stay because we had only walked 25km. So we said goodbye.

Homemade food at a restaurant!

It was the second time I fall one step short of the planned destination, but it was worth it. I'd rather be talking to people than walking alone, and when it's the same person for a few days, it's even better.

The hostel I checked into was terrible. There was no Wi-Fi, and it was extremely cold, and one had to pay 1 Euro to get hot water. I had only one, so I kept it for tomorrow and decided to take a cold shower. It was too cold! And my feet were cold after. I tried patatas bravas at the restaurant, mainly to get Wi-Fi. It's just bormal potatoe, but they're bigger. The hostel volunteer showed me how to use the stove, and I made plain rice, because I was srill hungry, and there was nothing else. There was no supermarket nearby. They couldn't think to provide veggies or soeme tomato sauce. The volunteer was an Italian who lives in Dubai now. We had a good conversation. He had done the Camino in the past and he wanted to volunteer. I took two blankets to be able to sleep. The only good thing about this hostel was that there were only 2 other people in there, and that I got to sleep early, at 8:30pm

50% of the Camino done!